A Day in Odawara: From Ancient Castles to Sweet Delights

Between the mountains and the sea in Kanagawa Prefecture, Odawara is often overlooked in favor of more famous spots like Hakone or Kamakura. But a day here also offers a perfect blend of history, nature, and culinary charm. From walking the old paths of a once-mighty castle to sharing a simple meal of oden and finishing with a quiet taste of tradition, Odawara offers a little bit of everything.

Here’s how to discover its charm in a single day.

Where the Siege Began—and Your Day Does Too

Begin your day at Ishigakiyama Ichiyajo, the so-called “One-Night Castle.” Legend claims that Toyotomi Hideyoshi, who held power as a feudal lord during the Azuchi–Momoyama period (1573–1600), built it overnight during his 1590 siege of Odawara to shake the Hojo clan’s confidence. Whether it was truly built in a night or cleverly staged to look that way, you’ll quickly see why the site was chosen. Towering above the city, it offers a sweeping view of Sagami Bay, the ridges of Hakone, and, on a clear day, even the distant silhouette of Mt. Fuji.

Take the trail upward; it’s more of a gentle trek than a serious hike, just enough to raise your heart rate and make the view feel earned. You’ll walk under a canopy of green, with only the occasional local passing by on a morning stroll. As the path winds through silence and shade, you might feel as if you’ve stepped into a living page of Japanese history, right where warlords once stood.

Into the Castle Town

After the descent, head into town to explore Odawara Castle, a striking reminder of the city’s legacy. Unlike Ishigakiyama’s bare bones, this castle has been thoughtfully reconstructed. White plaster walls, elegant rooftops, and a towering keep bring the period back to life.

The castle grounds are open and easy to explore, with wide lawns and shaded paths. Kids often rent samurai helmets for a quick photo op, while adults take their time moving between the exhibits. Inside the keep, the museum focuses on the Hojo clan’s legacy, with displays of armor, swords, and documents. Climb to the top floor for a clear view back toward Ishigakiyama and the coastline.

Lunch Like a Local at Odawara Oden Honten

By now, you’ve earned a proper meal, and Odawara Oden Honten is exactly the place for it. Just a short walk from the castle, this cozy restaurant specializes in oden, a comforting dish of slow-simmered ingredients in delicate broth.

Though oden is often associated with winter, it’s served here year-round, and after a morning on your feet, it hits the spot. You might want to order their Oden Chameshi Lunch (¥1,580), a tray of oden paired with rice cooked in savory broth and a mini dessert, for a fully local meal. For heartier appetites, there’s the Gyusuji Don Lunch (¥1,800), featuring tender beef tendon over rice. If you’re in the mood for something really filling, the Pork Kakuni Chimaki Set Lunch (¥1,650) offers rice dumplings filled with chunks of braised pork and your choice of Odawara oden.

The real charm, however, lies in the oden itself. You can pick your own combination from a list of over a dozen ingredients and fish cakes to add to your main meals. Some local standouts include yakidofu (grilled tofu) and Odawara naruto fish cake. Other favorites include shirataki noodles, stuffed squid (in the form of squid tempura and squid ink fish dumpling), white hanpen fish cake, and yuzu chicken balls, which offer a subtle citrus twist.

There’s also gobo satsumaage (fried fish cake) and the classic boiled egg—each adding a different texture and depth of flavor to your bowl. To complete the experience, the restaurant also serves green tea to pair with your meal, but during the warmer months, you can opt for their refreshing plum-flavored tea instead.

Beyond the food itself, the dining space adds to the experience. The restaurant offers both free seating and a private area that can be reserved in advance, making it a good option for solo diners, small groups, and more organized meals. In total, the space can accommodate around 50 to 60 guests, and it's worth noting that the restaurant is continually renovating and improving the interior to welcome even more diners in the future.

A Sweet Ending: Uiro and Seasonal Sweets

No visit to Odawara is complete without a stop at Uiro, one of the city’s oldest and most iconic family-run establishments. Founded in the 14th century, Uiro is renowned not just for its delicate steamed rice cakes, but also for its namesake traditional herbal medicine. Though they share a name, these two offerings reflect different aspects of Odawara’s cultural legacy—one culinary, the other medicinal.

The sweet uiro is made from rice flour and sugar, gently steamed to create a soft, smooth, and slightly chewy texture. Available in a variety of flavors like matcha, azuki (red bean), brown sugar, and white sugar, it’s a refined treat with subtle depth. It's also a perfect takeaway gift: beautifully packaged, easy to carry, and steeped in local flavor. Odds are, you’ll walk out with more than one box in your bag.

Beyond the classic steamed cakes, Uiro’s cafe also offers a rotating lineup of seasonal confections that highlight the aesthetics and culture of wagashi (traditional Japanese sweets). The design changes with each season, and July’s summer set includes a pink lily-shaped nerikiri, a high-class wagashi with seasonal themes, such as flowers in spring or leaves in autumn, a glossy kanoko made of sweet azuki beans; and namishibuki jelly, a kingyoku-style clear jelly, which is designed to mimic the image of sea waves surging against rocky shores, sending a burst of silver spray into the air. It also features a green persimmon-shaped uiro and a sunflower-inspired kinton. Each piece captures the fleeting beauty of the season in both flavor and form.

For something even more seasonal, don’t miss Uiro’s Suzukaze (“Cool Breeze”) set, a summer-exclusive pairing of chilled matcha with handmade wagashi, priced at ¥935. The shop also offers a standard drink menu featuring hot and iced matcha, orange juice, and coffee, with prices ranging from ¥550 to ¥1,045.

Please note that Uiro sweets sold in-store are available for takeout only. However, indoor seating is available for dine-in orders from the cafe menu. The beautifully wrapped confections are perfect for enjoying outdoors, perhaps while overlooking Odawara Castle or en route to your next destination. It’s a serene and satisfying way to end your time in the city.

Access to and around Odawara

Getting to and around Odawara is convenient and tourist-friendly. Located on the Tokaido Shinkansen line, it’s just about 35 minutes from Tokyo Station, making it an ideal day-trip destination. You can also reach Odawara via the JR Tokaido Line, Odakyu Line, and Hakone Tozan Railway, all of which are covered by various regional rail passes.

Once in the city, most attractions, including Odawara Castle, Uiro, and the shopping streets, are within walking distance of Odawara Station. For farther spots like the coast or plum groves, local buses and rental bicycles are readily available.

With everything so accessible, Odawara makes a great jumping-off point—not just for Hakone, but for your own adventure. And with its easy layout and efficient transport, the only hard part is deciding where to go first.